Valley of the What?

Written by Zachary Moses

 …Kings -yes, Valley of the Kings - and we’re not talking about King Tut’s burial place in Egypt. Our Valley of the Kings cycling tour in the Loire Valley of France has so many chateaux built by Kings that we have renamed the tour Valley of the Chateaux.

I had the pleasure to be a guide on our September 2011 tour, along with our experienced French bike tour guides Charly and David. This tour was a blast! We must have seen two or three chateaux every day, each more grand then the last. 

During the free day between our Big Loire, Little Loir cycling tour and this tour, Charly, David and I went to a nude beach in the middle of the Loire river. Charly told me the water was a nice temperature, but I thought it was dreadfully cold. I guess living in Key West has thinned my blood out. There were a couple of German guys who laughed when my nether regions hit the icy water. I guess squinching up your face and groaning painfully crosses all language barriers. It was all great fun after getting used to frostbite…I was sad when it was time to go back to work.

After the swim, it was back to Blois where we would welcome our next group in the morning. We did some restaurant scouting, which was awesome, because when the restaurant knows you might bring a big group, they try really hard to impress you. The owner came out and gave us some mousse and local wines; the food is the best part of the job.

Our first day with the guests got off to a great start. All the bikes fit with few adjustments, and everyone seemed to be in a good mood.  Before dinner, we had a nice tour around the city, complete with the usual 10 French cathedrals, 85 fabulously unreal bakeries, beautiful vistas, grand staircases, sexy people, and a statue that seems to be vomiting into a pool.

We started off our next morning bright and early. Breakfast was the classic croissants and a piece of ham. Ah, France. I wished I had time to go by a bakery where I could have gotten something truly amazing.

Everyone was in high spirits, (since no-one had wind in their faces yet). Our first destination of the day was Chaumont, famous for its yearly garden festival. Each year the individual gardens follow a specific theme. This year’s theme was sustainability. There were gardens with elaborate mushroom statues that made compost, gardens grown in bags of garbage, a garden draped in a wazoo of strange ribbons, and my favorite of all - the set of floating flax seed globes on pikes (seen here with castle in the background.) Chaumont is a classic example of pre-modern fairy tale architecture, sitting on a hillside with its cute little drawbridge and its knights in shining armor.

From Chaumont we rode toward Amboise, which also happens to be the final resting place of Leonardo da Vinci. His house, Le Clos-Luce, was very lovely and contained scale models of his famous inventions. We took some video of me talking about it, but my hair was all windswept to one side, so I decided not to show that bit. Instead, here is our friend Faiyaz at the huge Amboise Chateau. It has a spiral stone entryway so that horses could pull carts up from the bottom of the cliff. Believe it or not, it was once twice the size that it is today. The enormous chateau was largely demolished two centuries after it was built, when maintenance costs got too high for the owner.

Dinner as a group in Amboise was fun, but even more fun was when we went out for drinks afterward. That’s a picture of me and Jeff hiding from the waitress.

This restaurant/bar actually had fresh squeezed orange juice. It was the only good juice I had the whole time I was in France. (The French are good at food, but horrible at juice). Of course I went and ruined the juice by adding Vodka to it, then spending a couple more hours chatting with my new friends.

After the evening out with the guests I had to get up early to help prepare the bikes for the day’s ride. The guests all got to sleep in, but there is no rest for a bike guide. And no, I did not learn my lesson to go to bed early!

Day three: our first stop, Chenonceaux. This chateau is famous because it is built over the river. It is awesome! With all the money and technology today, I would love to see more marvels like this one. Our modern claim to fame? Really tall office buildings. Boring compared with this centuries-old handiwork.

I loved Chenonceaux. It has amazing gardens built on fortified islands, and the entire castle is a bridge. So you can imagine that the nobles were thinking “you want to cross to the other side, you’ve got to come through my living room, and why should I let you come through my living room?” Can you imagine if the San Francisco Mayor decided to build his house on the Golden Gate Bridge? It would be a nightmare.

I went down to the arches of the bridge in the basement. This is where the kitchens are. They had some really amazing stuff down there. I know a lot of people who would be proud to have this cooking range even today. The kitchen was equipped with a winch to bring water up from the river. If you’ve read any Game of Thrones books you would realize this is not so good during a seige, because your enemies will just pile dead bodies upriver.

The next day we bicycled toward Azay Le Rideau.  This was my favorite of all the towns on the tour. Our hotel was on the cobblestone road leading up to the chateau, which I never made got to see, as I fell asleep the moment I got into the hotel room.

That night we had our wine tasting. Charly gave me and David a fright when he told us that we would have to run the wine tasting on our own. I know nothing about wine. There was no way that I could wing my way through a wine tasting in France…I can’t even pronounce the names of California wines! I studied the wine, I studied my map, I panicked. Mean ol’ Charly was there after all and had just wanted to mess with us. After that, the wine tasting was lots of fun; I didn’t drink a whole lot since I was coming down with a cold so I poured most of my wine into a friend’s glass every time he looked away. He got a bit silly by the end of the evening.

We spent two nights in Azay, which was great because it meant we got a break from hauling luggage up the stairs (a service we guides try to offer at each stop of our French bike tours).

We set out the next day for Villandry. This Chateau is famous for its three formal gardens. It takes a staff of 12 full-time gardeners to maintain them. The views of these gardens were spectacular. They looked absolutely amazing anytime you could get above them and really see a birds-eye view of the patterns.

My favorite parts of this chateau were the trellises covered in grapes. I ate so many grapes it was ridiculous. While everyone else was touring the castle, I was walking back and forth gorging myself. I must have eaten at least 652 grapes. Luckily I was driving the van.  Besides, it was worth it, since these were by far the best grapes I had ever had. I definitely ate my way through my 6 euro entry fee.

The last visit was to Chateau de Langais. This was my favorite chateau of all. Most of the chateaux in France were redesigned during the Renaissance, leaving only the keep or the dungeons in the original medieval design. Chateau de Langais is still intact. With its fantastic towers and arched windows, it looks like it’s right out of Camelot! All the furniture inside is even original, including thousand year-old chairs and 600-year-old tapestries; it was truly amazing. Plus there was a yummy cafe across the street.

Dinner that night was in a cave…the restaurant was literally built into the side of a cliff. The food was incredible as always. My trip to France answered my lifelong question “How good can butter and baguettes actually get?” — VERY!!! My Key West Cuban bread just cannot compare.

Alyson Adventures really does spoil everyone. Come join me or any of our other fabulous guides on your next trip.

If you want all of the beauty of traveling, but none of the pedaling, check out our HE Travel Classic tours.

Big Gay Group in Big Gay Loire Valley

By Zachary Moses: Marketing Director

I knew I was no longer in the United States, when I looked out my subway car door and saw an attractive man wearing a shirt that fit! I mean it actually fit, like it was tailored by a professional. I really doubt this shirt came from a generic mall store. I mean seriously, look at this guy’s shirt. I think that every gay man in America needs to go to France and buy themselves a shirt like this. Where in France should you buy it? Ask your Alyson guide on your next bicycle trip.

As I crossed Paris to catch my train to Vendome, as luck would have it, my first day in France happened to be the one day that they decided to close the Paris Metro line that I needed to take to Montparnasse train station. Great! To make matters worse, I can’t actually read anything written in French, so I had no idea why I couldn’t get on the Paris Metro.

After some time I decided to leave the subway and head to street level where, lucky me, I happened to be at the doorstep of Notre Dame!  What a sight to behold! I would have loved to go inside, but I was too busy trying to deflect a woman pretending to be deaf and begging for money. Apparently there’s this scam going on in Paris where gypsies pretend to be deaf to get money from you. Do Not Pay Them: they or their friends will try to steal your wallet.

I finally found a tourist information booth where the nice lady pointed me in an ultimately unhelpful direction. In the end I got out my Paris map and solved my own problem. Within a matter of minutes I was on the efficient Paris bus system headed toward… well I wasn’t sure, but within minutes someone pointed me toward Monparnasse. Once I actually got to the train station, I decided to have my first cup of French coffee. It would have been magnifique, except that I accidentally added aspartame to it instead of creamer. The coffee shop was lovely, including the birds that appeared to live in the shop. It was picture perfect as long as you ignored the fact that there were bird droppings on the pastry case.

I boarded my TGV high-speed train, and before long I was walking through the ancient stone gate that marked the opening in Vendome’s city walls. It was a short walk to the hotel where I thankfully crashed out for several hours before I had to meet our other guides to start preparing 21 bikes for our group. After I woke up, I joined Tom, one of our guests who had arrived early, for a quick bite to eat. We went to a mediocre kebab place where Charly and David (the other two Alyson Adventures bike guides) found us. Charly mocked me for the rest of the trip for choosing Greek Kebab of all things as my first meal in France.

Our bike tour started with a walking tour of Vendome where Charly told everyone about the town’s rich history. We were all amazed at how beautiful Vendome is. The city is built all around the Large Loire and Little Loir Rivers and it is amazing the way the city has been built to highlight the waterways. Several of the buildings sit atop pylons and have the river flowing underneath them.

Most of the group saw Vendome and said how much they would love to live here. Of course, that was because they hadn’t yet been on the rest of our tour. By the end of the tour, no one knew which pretty part of France would be best to move to.

That night we ate our first dinner together and everyone began making fast friends among the group. This was a big group, 21 people including the guides, which is bigger then most Alyson groups ever get. Amazingly, Charly was able to find restaurants that were not only fabulous, but could actually accommodate the entire group at one table! The man is amazing… and really cute too.

The ride got off to a great start as we rode our way through Vendome, then off toward Troo, a Troglodyte village. Troglodyte literally means cave dweller and I was expecting something out of the Flintstones. I was surprised to see amazing luxury cave dwellings that make my dinky shoebox of a Key West apartment look like a very modest chicken coop.

We set off the next day toward Châteaudun. We rode through glorious farmland full of sunflowers and vineyards ready for harvest. Soon, we came to the first big hill of the tour (luckily downhill). David went on ahead to make sure that everyone made the turn, while I hung back to make sure we didn’t lose anyone. After the last of the group made it to the bottom of the hill, I sped ahead to catch the faster members of the group. Unknown to me, the riders ahead of me decided to stop at a bakery for a delicious french pastry and I rode right past them at my best “Tour de France” pace.

After a while I realized that either every single person had gone the wrong way, or I was clearly in front of the group, and not behind. I stopped to wait for everyone, and I have to say there is no better place to wait around than at Montigny Château at the top of a cliff overlooking the Loire Valley.

When everyone else arrived we had a lovely picnic lunch that Charly had prepared for us, and then we got to tour the Château. Inside was a tremendous amount of historic art and furniture. I was impressed at how our tired riders resisted the urge to sit on the irreplaceable furniture. In one room was a hutch full of tiny antique doll furniture. Nora went nuts for it. Below you can see her with her adorable New Jersey accent.

From Montigny we continued toward Chateaudun, an adorable fairy tale village at the top of a hill, complete with its very own Chateau (of course, this is France!). I lollygagged at the hotel till the last minute and nearly didn’t get to see the chateau. I had to beg the gate keeper in broken french (very broken french). In the end he took pity on me and allowed me to go in. And not only did he allow me to go in, but he let me in for free, and gave me 2 euros. Weird. I really liked this Chateau because there was no furniture in it, just this very, very strange statue of a deer with a thousand antlers stuck in the floor.

The following morning was another breakfast of croissants…I have to say, there were a few things I found out about France which I had not expected:

* Breakfast in France is not very interesting: Coffee and Bread, everyday. The bread and croissants are delicious, the coffee was tasty, and it was great for about three days, at which point I found myself fantasizing about a smoothie, an omelette, or really just about anything else.

* I did not see one single bidet.

* I found out that despite what my mother had told me, the French are very friendly.

* I also noticed that many American tourists in France seem to obsess about World War II, and love to remind their hosts that if it weren’t for us they’d all be speaking German … tacky.

* Oh, and don’t get me started on macarons (almond meringue pastries). Sure they look beautiful, and they are all the rage in the blogosphere, but alas, I did not find them appetizing at all!

Luckily, most of the things that matter were right on the money. Dinner was always amazing (except for the pre-tour Kebab incident), the variety of cheeses was incredible, and the bread…don’t even get me started about the bread…the smell alone is worth the $1200 plane ticket. And look at these mini Creme Brulees!! Not only were they delicious, but there were three kinds, and they were MINI so I could try all three with no guilt!

Our farewell dinner was in a tiny restaurant where the food was made in the basement and sent up to us by dumbwaiter. The food everywhere on this tour was incredible, but the final evening really takes the cake. Since our group was so big we practically owned the place. Charly took us there on a beautifully scenic route through the narrow streets of Blois. He even shared with us his dream of being immortalized in bronze as a city statue.

I hated saying goodbye to everyone, so several of us went out for after dinner drinks! I pretended I was a smashed drunk American tourist, and Charly pretended to be helping me get through the bar (it gave me the opportunity to snap a photo of a really cute guy’s shoes for David; he has a thing for men with nice shoes.) After we established that his shoes were not of interest to David, we asked him to snap a picture of our group.

I’ve found I really get attached to the people with whom I share these unique experiences. It’s really hard as the trips come to a close and I realize I won’t be with my new friends much longer. I got to meet so many new people from so many different places and I got to spend time with a few locals from my own Key West! Some of us Key West folk got a nice game of Hand and Foot (a Key West version of canasta) going and nearly missed the farewell drinks.

Come join us on our next adventure! Just look at the bike guides in these photos - how can you resist?

Alyson Adventures tour calendar

In Cuba with the Harvard Radcliffe Orchestra—a timpanist’s tale | Harvard Magazine

In Cuba with the Harvard Radcliffe Orchestra—a timpanist’s tale | Harvard Magazine.

This is a lovely article by a young timpani player with the Harvard-Radcliffe Orchestra about a recent trip to Cuba by the Orchestra. They performed concerts with their Cuban counterparts in three cities, Cienfuegos, Santa Clara and Havana.

The culmination of their tour was a performance in Havana of Beethoven’s Ninth Symphony – the Ode to Joy. How fitting to conclude with a work whose chorus begins “Alle Menschen werden Brüder” or ”All men will be brothers.” (I had the great joy of performing this work with Seiji Ozawa and the Boston Symphony while a student member of the Harvard Glee Club, and then of being in the audience in Tokyo as Maestro Ozawa performed the same work there a few years later.)

In 2000 the People-to-People Ambassador Program invited me to be the tour director for a group of 61 American educators for a week-long study tour in Cuba, under the Clinton Administration’s licensing guidelines. As did the author of this article, I was struck by both the timeless beauty of the architecture and the landscape, and by the warm welcome we received from the Cubans, who knew that we American citizens had no more control over our government’s Cuba policy than they had over Fidel Castro’s whims.

I am very much looking forward to a humanitarian trip to Cuba that I will be leading November 1-9 for a small group of gay men, lesbians and friends. This is not a tour run by Hanns Ebensten Travel and Alyson Adventures, but is operated by an organization that has run humanitarian trips to Cuba for over 15 years. We will be taking medical supplies to a clinic in Havana that serves people with HIV and AIDS. If you would like information about the trip, please send an email to me at psheldon@aol.com.

Phil Sheldon & Catherine Heeg: Changes in Tourism Industry

Join a lively conversation with me (Phil Sheldon), owner at Hanns Ebensten Travel/Alyson Adventures and member, China Inbound Task Force at NTA and graduate of ITMI.

In this interview I share my insights on how the tourism industry has changed and how a tour director can provide ‘ecology of place’ for tour guests. While experiential tours are growing in popularity, the role of the tour director is to provide structured serendipity to a new breed of traveler.

Check out our homepage where the podcast is imbedded: HEtravel.com

Key West Pride and the Mr. Pride Festival

Pride festivals are happening all over the country. This month during Key West’s Pride Festival, Zachary Moses got it in his head that he should enter the Mr. Pride Pageant at the last minute. Lacking the time to put together the standard million dollar talent show that is his style (complete with swans, swimmers and go-go dancers) Zachary went ahead and played his guitar in his underwear.

Sporting a leather cowboy hat and his acoustic guitar, it brought images to mind of the Naked Cowboy. Zachary is the Marketing Director for Alyson Adventures and Hanns Ebensten Travel and will be one of our guides on Big Loire /Little Loir, and Valley of the Kings in France.

Key West Pride and the Mr. Pride Pageant:

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Donation for the Hill Country Ride For Aids

Each year Alyson Adventures and Hanns Ebensten Travel give back to the community in ways that not only help people, but embody the spirit of the tours we offer. Along with making monetary contributions and volunteering our time, we offer several of our unique tours each year to non-profit organizations to enhance their fund-raising.

One of our donations this year was a Valley of the Kings bike tour, which was awarded to Tim Young of Austin, Texas. For the past five years, Tim has been the Team Captain for the top fundraising team for the Hill Country Ride for AIDS.

Thank you Tim, and all the riders, volunteer crew, sponsors, donors, and supporters for making the 2011 Hill Country Ride for AIDS such a huge success in gathering resources to support those in need.  We were so pleased to be a part of this community of heroes who helped raise nearly $600,000.  We also humbly applaud several other riders that we’ve supported in similar rides in California, Toronto and in our backyard here in South Florida.

Below is a letter written by Tim:

This year marks my 7^th year of riding in the Hill Country Ride for AIDS, five of which I have done as the captain of Full On, Full On.  It took my friend Scott Murphy a couple of years of coaxing me to ride before I took the plunge.  I thought it would be too hard for someone who had not really been on a bike much since grade school, and I thought it might be a challenge to raise the minimum amount.  I was wrong on both counts.  Plus, I had a great time and made some amazing new friends.  I was hooked.  The team I joined that first year came in as the second highest fund raising team that year.

My first year team disintegrated when the two leaders moved away from Austin, so we had to find a new team.  That second year our team won the top fund raising award, but as I looked around, I did not know more than half the team.  I missed the camaraderie we had developed the first year.  For those of you who don’t know me, I am just a little bit competitive.  And, I like to have fun while working on a great cause.  So with that, some dear friends and I decided to form our own team to see how we would do.

The name “Full On, Full On” came from a night with the co-founders of the team (Scott Murphy, Scott Ballew and Mark Fisette), a couple of bottles of wine and a glossary of biking terms that Scott Murphy had printed out to look for ideas for a team name.  Scott’s glossary said that “Full On, Full On meant riding with gusto.  Going all out.  Giving it your all.”  It seemed perfect.

Full On is blessed to have a core group of great friends as part of the team.  The makeup changes from year to year as we add some new riders.   In our five years of existence, Full On, Full On has raised over $247,000.

I’m often asked about our “secret” for raising money for this cause.  It’s really quite simple, and it’s not a secret.

1. Ask everyone to support you.  Don’t self censor, as you never know whose life has been touched by HIV.
2. Use the fund raising tools the organization provides.  They make it easy to get the word out and keep it organized for you, year after year.
3. Tell your story.  Tell why you ride.  Tell what you are doing to prepare.  Tell about your progress.
4. Raise your goal if you get close to or exceed your original goal.  And do it again.  And again.  Don’t be apologetic.  You’re winning.
5. Ask again.  People procrastinate.  They think there is plenty of time to pledge later.  They forget.  Time slips away.  Ask again.
6. Thank your donors.  Yes, it’s good manners, but it is also extremely important for the next year’s fund raising.

Even though we are a strong team with a great track record of fund raising, we view every year as a new challenge.  You never know who’s coming back, who’s forming a new team or who’s joining the team their boyfriend/girlfriend/mother has joined.  We love the competition year to year, and believe that it’s all for the greater good.  Competition spurs us all on to work a little harder.  And more competition means that together we all raise more money for the beneficiary agencies of the Ride.

So bring it on, Bev’s Biking Beasts with your formidable fund raising, Capital City Front Runners with your hot pink jerseys, and Heavy Breathers with your 89 riders!  Or it could be one of you reading this who decides to create the new hot team of 2012.  Bring it on!  And let’s all raise even more money next year.  Full On will be there for the challenge.  And even though our team will certainly fiercely compete to be number one again, think about this:  if we can use healthy competition to encourage every team and every person raise more money, we’re all winners and we can have a lot of competitive fun along the way.

On a personal note, I was truly humbled and rendered speechless (hard to do to a lawyer, trust me) by the award of the biking trip through the Loire Valley of France donated by Alyson Adventures.  I wish my full team could attend, as they are my heroes for doing what they do to help make this Ride and our team such a success.

Oh, and one more thing.  Remember Tip No. 5?  Ask again.  Let’s all ask again.  Let’s see if we can break $600,000 for this year’s ride total.  As I write this, we are only $10,000 away!

Tim

We all send a huge thanks to Phil, Greg, and everyone at Alyson Adventures for their generous gift.

Take a look at their calendar of upcoming trips!

“Hanns Ebensten Travel and Alyson Adventures are the pioneers in Gay Travel with a history going back to 1973 when they led their first tours into Egypt, The Grand Canyon, and Brazil. Their tours are as close to home as a week long adventure in the Grand Tetons or whitewater rafting through the Grand Canyon, or as far away as Easter Island, Peru, South Africa and Antarctica. About half of their tours are for gay men only, while the rest are open to gay men, lesbians and their friends.

Meditations on Mount Athos

I was very moved on Easter Sunday 2011 to see the 60 Minutes story on CBS TV about the monasteries of Mount Athos in northern Greece. As the 60 Minutes narrator said, this peninsula has probably seen less change over the past 500 years than any other inhabited place on earth.

I led small groups of men on pilgrimages to the Holy Mountain in 1998 and 1999, and was welcomed by the monks into buildings that go back up to 1000 years, celebrating a man who inspired their faith by his words and deeds 2000 years ago. My visit there was my personal millennial experience. Following is a magazine article I wrote about the experience.

Click here to view part 2

My Millennial Moment

While much of the world was carefully planning where they would be at midnight on December 31, 1999, my millennial moment occurred at sunset on a warm September evening, three months earlier.

The theocratic republic of Mount Athos is home to 20 Orthodox monasteries, spread across a peninsula in northeastern Greece. All affairs of The Holy Mountain are governed by the 20 abbots of this autonomous republic within Greece. The oldest monasteries were built 1000 years ago, and from the earliest days, all female beings, both human and animal, have been forbidden. (One legend has it that there were too many dalliances between young monks and the daughters of nearby farmers.)

Twice I have been privileged to be one of the ten non-Orthodox men granted a four-day permit to visit Mount Athos, staying at a different monastery each night, and hiking or taking a small boat between the medieval fortress-like buildings by day.

My very personal millennial moment came the first night on Mount Athos just after sunset. We had just stepped back into the Xenophontos Monastery from watching the sun set into the Aegean Sea from the belvedere, outside the monastery walls. After the massive wooden gate closed behind us and was locked for the night, I sat down in the courtyard to observe the scene in the fading light.

In front of me was the “old” church, 1000 years old and much too small for any purpose other than individual meditation. As I sat under a fig tree, I could envision the workers 1000 years ago seeking shade under a long-ago ancestor of this tree. As the sky darkened, a light breeze brought the smell of incense over my shoulder, accompanied by the chanting in two-part harmony as the monks began an overnight vigil to the Virgin Mary, led by their 70-year-old abbot, a man with a remarkable tenor voice.

The monks were in the “new” church, only 600 years old, honoring a woman of 2000 years ago who had a son whose influence on the world included the calendar which was about to begin its third millennium.

That night, as I lay in my bed in the guest quarters and looked out the window at the kaleidoscope reflection of the full moon in the sea, my communion across the millennia was complete, and it would not matter where I was when the clock passed midnight on December 31, 1999 heralding the start of the new millenium.

Philip Sheldon is President of Hanns Ebensten Travel, Inc., the first company to offer tours for gay men in 1972, and Alyson Adventures, Inc., which offers active hiking, biking, kayaking and other vacations for gay men, lesbians and their friends.

Published in Courier Magazine (National Tour Association) 2004